Tag Archives: Work in Progress

Miniatures Ship Projects

I’ve been on a ship building spree the past month or so.  I am about half finished with my Goblins display/fighting ship (tis’ a proper ship as it holds a small torpedo boat as well).  Anyways, it is half of a wrecked ship with the damaged end held above the water by fish nets worth of floating crates and barrels.  I finally got the barrels and crates, but. . .

I have been on a Steampunk Sky ship kick in the past week.  After slapping together the goblin boat above and a 1:300 scale corvette boat for use with Fighting Sails rules by Osprey Wargames, I decided to try and make nice ones I could be proud of when showing them off.

B Carol Fuhl 01

HMS B Carol Fuhl (aka the Be Careful)

I decided to use the Cloudships and Gunboats of Mars from the old Space:  1889 game by Frank Chadwick.  Making a copy of the Aphid class gunboat is almost mandatory for anyone interested in making Martian fight vessels so I’ve built a copy in about 6mm scale.  The end result is a bit chunk for 1mm = 1 foot, but I’m more concerned with the visual appeal at the moment.  I’m making at least one more ship (perhaps USA or France) from the game as well.

The game rules for Chadwick’s game are overly complicated for the style I’m looking for so I’m looking for a different rules set.  The theme is steampunk Martian sky fliers.

Here’s a Work in Progress.  Mostly have only to paint it.



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Filed under Miniatures, Ship Building, Ship Modeling, Steampunk, Uncategorized, Wargaming, Woodworking

Martian Long Gun

Updated (7/25/17) at end of post.

I’ve recently joined the Steampunk Gun Club on Facebook.  They are currently having an “all metal” competition that would have been perfect for my Satchel Gun, but work can not have begun before the contest was announced.

Me being the honest Abe that I am decided to dredge up an older idea and use it.  My style is to use a little bit of all materials available during the Steampunk years (circa 1800s).  Although the original contest idea was an all metal build, they did say it was alright to use wood for stocks and grips.  As I’ve mentioned, my build will include other materials as well; however, they will be primarily used as non-critical elements and accessories.

Here is an idea of what the gun will look like without the intended rifle scope added.


As you can see, it is still a design in progress.  As an extra twist, the contest states the gun’s trigger must be operational in such a way that it operates light, sound, or some other similar effect.

Anyways, the contest ends in mid-July leaving me with about 4 weeks remaining.

I waited for a pivotal piece that connected the stock to the rifle.  (This is shown in the lower rifle example.)  However, I was disappointed to find they mailed me the wrong part.  I visited the local DIY store (Lowes) and found the potential solution using the smaller but available sized 1″ copper pipe tubing of which the gun is primarily made.  The forked uprights are shifting forks from some motor cycle or other.  I only have three at the moment, but have made an effort twice now to buy the correct size (shaft rod).

Wood will be wrapped around the front barrel shrouds.  Another piece will have circles cut into it and extended back near the shoulder.  An upper and lower rod will protrude from the upper and lower edge of the wood stock allowing leather to be wrapped around the end piece for use as the shoulder rest portion of the rear stock.

Update (7/25/17) – Well, a week and a half remain in the contest (the contest was extended until August 5th).  I need to get my ass in gear.  Here’s a pic of what I have thus  far for the gun.  (The tubes along the edge of the bench.)  Unseen is the handle and shoulder stock.  The wooden portion of the shoulder stock can be seen to the right of the lime green drill.  The circles are cut in the stock.  DSCN0592

Overall, I have things figured out and know how I’m going to make them, but I still have no idea about how to dress up the receiver and how to attach the scope.  Also, I’m not convinced the gun will be strong enough.  A 1/2″ threaded rod will hold the barrel pieces together, but it won’t go any further than the receiver so the handle and shoulder stock will be fairly weak.  Of course, that is where the strength needs to be so a solution is needed and quick!

The scope is mocked up and requires a little more work.  I’m not sure if I like it or not.   The mock up is shown here, but the magnifying glasses are not shown.  The diagram is generally how I envision the scope.  As can be seen, a real scope is hidden within the scope allowing four times (4x) magnification.  To complete the project, I’ll have to remove the scope’s eye piece to put on the smaller bellows.  Also, I will be placing a rod to either side of the scope that will hold everything together and straight.  At the moment, the scope rings will remain mid-center of the scope and be used to mount the scope to the rifle.  The tall, metal, fork “Sights” on the gun make mounting a challenge.  However. the shoulder stock sits quite high so using the scope should be relatively comfortable.  People should not have to stretch their neck to use it.

I made the bellows using Popsicle sticks and black hockey tape.  My plan was to wrap over the tape with black leather, but that seems a bit over designed.  The cloth will add an additional texture to help break up the hardness of the oak.  I have some watch crystals that I’ll be using to cover some of the drilled holes.  Aside from any dust, they should not effect the use of the scope.  The magnifying lenses are just for looks and will prevent the scope from being used if placed in line of sight.

The “eye piece” on the far right will be more like that of my range finder project.  The square box, might be used for some other purpose.

DSCN0593   The following pic shows one of many of the inspiring scope designs.  I like the absurdity of having so many optics on one gun.   If time remains, I might involve a laser and/or flash light.71fw-N77k8L._SL1001_

As always, thanks for looking.

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Filed under Cosplay, LARP, Props, Steampunk, Woodworking

A Sketchy Weekend

Here’s this past weekend’s project.  It’s a work in progress so I’m only about half finished.  It’ll be used as a city map for a Dungeons and Dragons game.  I’m pretty happy with the results since I’ve only ever attempted the isometric village scene once before.  A few structures and techniques I borrowed from a pic off the internet.  pic 5 I’ll expand a bit to the northwest and much to the northeast.  I was saving the space along the right edge and southeast for the legend and number description.  I’ll be numbering it, but probably on a non-numbered photocopy so i can switch things around in the future.  I’ll probably just print and tape the descriptions and legend onto the page just before photocopying.  Again, this will allow me to make changes in the future.

Updated (8/11/16) – I’ve decided to include canals by expanding onto a new poster board to the right.  I’m not certain I like the results thus far.  The legend (seen here under the ruler) will be added during photocopying so I will have space.  It contains the businesses in both numeric and alphabetical order for quicker discovery. pic 9

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Gun Cabinet Finished (Sort of)

This is the cabinet portion of the Steampunk heavy machine gun.  I need to work on the gun sights, plumbing, legs/stand, and other details before I take the final photographs.

Steampunk Heavy Machine Gun Cabinet

Here’s the step by step progress:  STEP-BY-STEP  or https://fleetinginterests.wordpress.com/steampunk-heavy-machine-gun-sentry/

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Filed under LARP, Props, Steampunk, Uncategorized, Woodworking

Warhammer Border Princes Map Tapestry

Here’s the current state of the sewing project.  Games Workshop scrapped the Warhammer universe completely meaning this might never be used again.  However, Kings of War (by Mantic Games) is gaining popularity so fingers crossed.


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Tutorial – Hand Etching Rifle Sights onto a Glass Lens (Cheap & Easy)

I thought I’d make a quick tutorial so I don’t forget the process I used to cheaply and easily etch some sights.

UPDATE:  Before removing the lens from the “scope”, mark on both the scope and the lens a shared line.  When unscrewed, the line will be a reference point to tell where on the lens the line will be made.  I made a line on the bottom center to tell me where the etched line will be located.  I centered up the line by eye and then did the same for the crossing line.

1 1.5

1.) Preparation – First polish the glass until squeaky clean (literally), dry, and remove any dust.  Next we place drops of clear (gloss) acrylic “paint” onto the surface to be etched.  Use enough to pool completely across the lens.  Let dry for at least an hour.  Touch the surface and check for fingerprints.  2.) Mask the lens with painters tape (designed to be less sticky than masking tape) on all areas where the scratch will not be.  3.) Start with the knife on the tape and lightly drag the knife straight down.  [Be aware that the knife will pull away the tape if the knife is drawn too close to the end of a piece of tape.]

3 4

4.) Wipe carefully with a dry, soft cloth and examine the result to ensure location and straightness.


Perform the procedure for all other lines.  It might be necessary to place stops so short lines can be drawn.  A steady hand might do, but placing something below the wrist that will lift the knife once it hits the obstruction might be better.

I have yet to do any experiments of coloring.  What might work is a tiny, tiny dot of black acrylic paint diluted with the clear acrylic gloss used to coat the lens.  Carefully drag the tiniest bit along the lines.  The paint should (theoretically) be drawn into the scratch as it dries.  Of course, failure would most likely mean repeating the entire procedure.

Alternatively, simply draw a fine line along the edge of a piece of tape.  It should work as long as the line is of a uniform thickness.

Note:  I used this procedure on the RANGE FINDER PROJECT which has nonworking optics.  I don’t know the effect if used on an actual scope.

Anyways, good luck.

– Patrick

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Filed under Props, Steampunk

New Project: Warhammer Tapestry

Updated – Although more sewing is needed, the general idea can be seen.

DSCN0501 - Copy


Original Entry Follows:

I’ve wanted to do this one for several years, but was recently inspired by the guys at the game club blowing up the Border Princes map to a table size for campaigning.  My hope is we might use it in the next campaign.

I plan to “embroider” the crest as well, as finishing off the black part of the serpent.  I used a painter’s tarp for the canvas.

I used a high res copy of the map and decreased the color palette to 2 colors (black/white).  I trimmed the border because it filled in mostly and would eat up my black ink cartridge.  I printed the image onto legal sized paper.  I then transferred it to the canvas by laying it down and flipping it back and forth until a copied.  It took a few hours of back breaking, to do the tedious process.  Initially, I figured this would be enough, but it looks pretty lame, and the Sharpie marker proved less effective than hoped.

Tapestry (4) Tapestry (3) Tapestry (2) Tapestry (1)

The actual image is about 5′ 2″ long and about 3′ 6″ tall.  I’ll be adding something along the bottom to tack up room as well as ading a border around the entire edge.  I was looking though the Mordheim book for inspiration, but they don’t really relate to the subject.  The only treasure was a simple border with a few skulls centered along the bottom.  It might look decent, but only if I keep the skulls small.  I’ll still need to fill the excess portion of teh bottom.  Perhaps some sort of legend, but for what?  The map itself describes everything.  I don’t know.  I guess I could draw the border now, but I really prefer to wait until I have the entire bottom planned out.  I already have too many erroneous lines and marks.  I’d hate to add to them.


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