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Leather Mordheim Map

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

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The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and obscured in all but the important parts; namely, the numbers, legend and title.  After printing I used a black gel pen to give a shadow to all the numbers, title and scale.  I then yellowed the numbers with a yellow highlighter.  The legend was missing too much to not fill in the blanks and to make some uniformity I had to write the entire legend.  Much of it was just tracing over the words underneath.

Here is the image before transferring. on facebook

The detail in the black artwork was completely lost and I feared tearing of the image so I did not rub off the backing as well as I should have.   This image will be laminated and attached to a steel back to allow use of magnets for tracking progress.

In conclusion, using a laser copy probably would be better, but I was able to obtain only ink jet copies.  Despite all I read on the internet, I was able to use an ink jet copy and transfer it to both wood and leather.  In addition to transfer testing, I was also able to better learn how to use my Photoshop Pro program.

Anyways, thanks for looking.

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Mordheim Campaign Map (Large Image)

Note:  I use an ink jet printer.  Even the large image printed at Staples is an ink jet.  I have no idea how a laser printer would look.  Laser printer colors are more vibrant so it might be a better way to go.  Also, I use regular printer paper because other papers tend to require more rubbing and the more the image is touched the better the chance of damage.

All art and images are taken from the internet or the Mordheim rules book PDF.

After testing on red oak, pine and beige leather, I found the numbers are too light to read easily.

Update – I’m still testing which backgrounds work with the following image, thought I’d post it anyways.

Parchment with Yellow numbers.  (Large 24″ x 16″ File)

17-8-25 (24x16) Final w-Yellow numbers

 

After many attempts, I finally found a solution to the faint numbering.  After using the transfer solution and removing the paper, the image must be sealed with a thin coat to allow for both image durability and visibility of the numbers.  Using a common red ink pen, the center red areas of the image’s numbers are traced leaving the yellow border.  Then, a common black ink pen is used to create shadows.

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Note the Lovecraft image at the top.  It was the first thing transferred using straight Future floor wax (the old formula).  Unfortunately, far less than was needed remained in the bottle (I’ve had it for ten years).  The bottle was left open (due to it always wanting to stick closed).  Perhaps the formula evaporated over the years allowing the transferring?

UPDATE:  O.K., Here we go!  I printed a 12″ x 18″ parchment (brown) file and adhered it to a lest strip of leather.  Few wrinkles, but the ink squished out heavily around the edges so I suspect the image will be runny and ruined.

12 x 18 Leather Test

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

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The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and oscured in all but the important parts.

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Book Display Stand

As always, completion of one project leads to a hundred more.  While filling the display case, I realized I need a few things to better display some items.  I have a few books I bought off of Etsy (made by Mille Cuirs) that I want to display, but I could not find a suitable display stand so I created my own using some oak and a broken 3/8″ thick glass shelf I happen to have laying about.  The glass was supposed to be trash, but now that I realized I can cut it, i’ll keep it.

Book Display Stand -combo

I want to do something with the rear base.  I thought of painting it black, but that seems too simple.  Perhaps add a tapper to narrow the width?

I have one more book by Mille I want to display and the above look is equally suitable so its display stand will be pretty much the same except smaller.

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Display Cabinet (IKEA Mod)

Well, the cabinet is about as done as it will get.  I intend to do a few touch ups , but for the most part it is finished.

From IKEA

 

The things planned to store in the cabinet are quite minuscule in number compared to the amount of items displaced by the cabinet.   I should have built was shelving instead.

The cabinet is 50″ wide and nearly 6′ tall and 20″ deep.  It is lit by track lighting and can be dismantled for movement (although this is an utter pain in the ass).

Thanks for looking.

 

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48″ Display Case (IKEA Mod)

Starting life as an IKEA all glass display case (I never trusted the design) this project has the distinction of beginning as a five feet wide case for the Icehouse Game club, but word came down near completion that the space was no longer available.  Thus, Thursday’s project became a redesign on Friday.  Saturday I took up hammer and saw and drove on.

Unfortunately, the project turned out to be longer than expected and larger than expected.  The result is no room or time to finish the Martian Long Gun.

Saturday ended with a picture of a promising start.  Things looked like it might be a two day build.

PLAN B - Day 1 Doors and Sides  Unfortunately, Sunday turned out to be primarily revisiting Saturday’s labors due to the groggy mind caused by late night woodworking.  Sunday ended with a bit of progress.  The front surrounding face was made and the boards for the back wall ready for pocket drilling.  The camera refused to focus.

PLAN B - Day 2 (Front Face) (1)

Day 3 and the back is pretty much ready for final gluing and screwing; However, before I can install the panels, I must first glue on a carpet.  I’m using carpet because the pile should cover over any holes placed thru the peg board.  The current carpet is more like the fuzzy part of Velcro than like the short pile rug I had in mind.  I’m visiting a different Home Depot to see what they might have.  I have a 1/4″ black carpet, but originally wanted a red short pile.  Anyways, thanks for looking.

PLAN B - Day 3 (Back Panel)

Well, the carpet was a bust.  I could not find any I liked and I’m not certain the brackets would lay properly since the pile would probably keep it pushed out.  Instead, I went with red velvet which will probably look like dookie if I should ever expose the holes made by the brackets.  Anyways, the panels were completed yesterday and are ready to install, however, the basement is too dirty to install early, so the five panels remain on my living room floor.

Plan B - Day 4 (Red Panel)

(Day 5) I worked worked on the base and needed to add planks to the tops and bottoms of the side pieces so they meet the top of the front facing.  Also, the bottom planks allow me to screw the sides to the base.

Day 7 – I built the top and stained all of the pieces.  The stain matches the floor board color pretty well.  A coat of polyurethane would probably match them up, but I’m not going to use it.  It looks good enough.  I didn’t really sand down the edges as I should, because I didn’t want to risk damaging the prefinished surface as I did in one spot.  I’m skipping the base molding since it really is just one more thing to get damaged or in the way.

Day 8 – The basement was too dirty to do a dry fit, so I just put it together upstairs in its intended place.  Here is the link to the final outcome.

 

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STEAMPUNK SUBMACHINE GUN (SATCHEL GUN)

WORK IN PROGRESS

(Updated 05/08/17)

 Storied Background

“The idea behind the gun was to create a firearm capable of being carried in a small satchel and provide deterring firepower until an escape can be made. During last minute design, the requirement was added for an attachable shoulder stock and bayonet. The order for a bayonet was ignored and the stock was given a design borrowed from a popular carbine of the age.”

Design

I wanted to make something like the guns used by lackies in the movie League of Extraordinary Gentlemen. Also, I wanted something compact so the original idea was to follow the Magpul FMG9 folding sub-machine gun. The prop is designed for display and perhaps light handling during LARPing.

Aside from the removable magazine and folding foregrip, the gun has no other moving parts. I did not want to complicate the design as I always do. I chose to save the complexity for my next projects.

The upper portion of the gun is only one inch wide with the thickest (hand grips) area being only one and a half inches thick.

Sight design proved difficult as a simple, yet interesting, design was needed. In the end, I kept it simple and tossed on a short scope remeniscent of modern firearms modifications.

I took pictures of the work in progress, but not until later in the build.  Here are a few ideas I jotted down to guide myself. As you can see, the stock was quite baffling. PWB M1-07 Notes

I’m looking forward to utilizing what I learned in my next gun project. I want to make a gun that uses a locking lug system such as the Luger pistol or the Pederson rifle. I definitely want it to incorporate moving parts.

Construction

The design has no actual firearm parts using only stock metal and wood from the local DIY store along with a few found items. I used only common hand and power tools. A cordless drill for light work and a proper corded drill for most of the labor. I cheated a bit by using a grinding wheel which speeds things up, but is nothing that cannot be completed manually. In actuallity, the wheel actually caused me to use the hand files more than once to correct some overzelous grinding so going quick is not always the best route.

When building, I constructed all the metal pieces before fitting the wood.

I quickly ran into trouble making the stock both folding and steampunky. In the end, I chose ‘punk over function. The handle is split into two pieces. The upper half is attacked to the reciever while the lower half remains with the ammunition magazine.

In addition, the stock is attached to the magazine handle allowing easy addition or removal. Of course, one loses the use of the stock when reloading. For this reason, the Satchel Gun was issues with a second, stockless magazine allowing the gunner to respond to any close range enemy advancements until the stocked magazine was loaded. The stocked was then swapped with the extra magazine allowing more accurate engaugement with the enemy. Thus, the short magazine was intended for defense until the stocked magazine was avaialble for offensive fire.

At this time, I do not have a short (w/o stock) magazine available. However, since I like the result and the construction is relatively simple, I suspect I will be using the magazine for future builds as well.

A folding foregrip/handle is placed just below the muzzle and theoretically acts as both foregrip and charging handle. However, on this prop, the handle only folds and unfolds. Although, it is sturdy enough to be used.

Well, I had to file off all the paint and some of the corners, but after a generous amount of wax, the handle and magazine fit together nice and snug. This means I should not need to bolt them together as I feared earlier.  The copper tube used for the barrel is nearly lost in the shadows.  It will also be painted black and the shoulder stock will have additional length added.  Trigger, sights, scope and interior parts are also in the works.  

PWB M1-07 (WIP)

Update (05/06/17) follows — I revisited the shoulder stock.  I attempted to ‘punk it up.  I added the foregrip furniture and folding handle.  The furniture is only test pieces.  The actual grips will be oak to match the shoulder stock.  They are only held by rubber bands at the moment, but I like the idea of something more than attaching them with screws.  The folding grip is only held in place by friction at the moment.  I might work out a spring system?  I need to work out the scope/sights on the top of the gun.  ALso, the hand grips need to be added (somehow).

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Update:  the spring idea for the folding handle failed.  I’ve moved onto assembling and installing the interior works.  Since this is a display only, the internals are held in place by a nail head.

 Update:  (Photo follows) Added a sling which required extensive testing.  Glad I did because I don’t want to remake a new stock.  I replaced the copper tube barrel with a piece of black gas pipe.  I is thicker and looks more like a real barrel.  The foregrip is only a mock-up.  The folding handle is down, but blends in  with the background.  Thankfully it does not interfere with the front swivel.  I also worked out the scope and its mount, but have not attached it here.  The scope will be capable of flipping to the side.  However, there will not be any iron sights to use in lieu of the scope.  The trigger and trigger guard are still needed.

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Update (05/08/17) [No pics] — I added a trigger and trigger guard tonight.  I’ve also decided how to attach the grips to the handle.  I want a way to easily separate the mag from the handle, but at the moment the only solution is to screw them together or use some sort of pin.  The only other thing before painting is making and fitting the hand grips and fore grips.

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Nyarlathotep Bloody Tongue Avatar

DSCN0499 - CopyHere’s my first attempt at tooling soapstone.  Overall it came out well.  The praying hands are a bit off.  It is inspired by Bruce Attley’s Nyarlathotep (Crawling Chaos) statue.

I hope to sculpt a few more (with much better photographs).  This took about two months of spare time so doing an Azathoth, Shub-Niggurath, and Yog-Sothoth sculpt seems possible.

Thanks for looking.

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