Category Archives: Miniatures

Painting, sculpting, or otherwise manipulation of miniature pewter sculptures.

15mm Cobra Tank Test Models

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I weathered the model with cinnamon spice and clear floor wax to seal it in place.

It was then that I fouled the entire mess up by freehanding the cobra insignia on the rear end.  Decal paper has been ordered.

I’m not looking for praise, but tell me what you think.  Does it look like a sun-beaten blue tan that’s spent the week in the field fighting their foes?  Or does it look a bit sloppy?

Thanks for looking.

 

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Test Piece for 15mm Cobra CLAW Platoon

Two troopers mounted per medium sized base (1″x1.5″).

I’m not sure the smoke trail effect works for the piece?

Thoughts before I delve into the rest?

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Untitled

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A Cobra H.I.S.S. III Platoon

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A bit time consuming, but I’m happy to have them done.  Although I actually prefer the black color for the tanks, I decided to go with something a little more interesting.  Nothing fancy.

I had to freehand paint the cobra emblems.  I should have used black and red instead o red and blue.  They would show up better.  Makbe next time.

Light Armor Platoon (HISS I&IIII)

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A New Old Project: Cobra SMS Missile Transort

It has been some time since I broke out the brush especially for a Cobra project.  The numbers are obviously decals stolen from Soviet WWII models, but the Cobra emblem at the tail end is all me.  That’s why they looks so funky.  It is not easy, but I promise myself I will get better.

I wish I did a better job painting the operators now.

 

COBRA SMS

(Cobra Heetseek Missile System with H.I.S.S. transport tanks)

Again, the missiles themselves are kit bashed and proxied inplace of the nonexistent 15mm models.

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MTOE Heetseek Missile

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Miniatures Ship Projects

I’ve been on a ship building spree the past month or so.  I am about half finished with my Goblins display/fighting ship (tis’ a proper ship as it holds a small torpedo boat as well).  Anyways, it is half of a wrecked ship with the damaged end held above the water by fish nets worth of floating crates and barrels.  I finally got the barrels and crates, but. . .

I have been on a Steampunk Sky ship kick in the past week.  After slapping together the goblin boat above and a 1:300 scale corvette boat for use with Fighting Sails rules by Osprey Wargames, I decided to try and make nice ones I could be proud of when showing them off.

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HMS B Carol Fuhl (aka the Be Careful)

I decided to use the Cloudships and Gunboats of Mars from the old Space:  1889 game by Frank Chadwick.  Making a copy of the Aphid class gunboat is almost mandatory for anyone interested in making Martian fight vessels so I’ve built a copy in about 6mm scale.  The end result is a bit chunk for 1mm = 1 foot, but I’m more concerned with the visual appeal at the moment.  I’m making at least one more ship (perhaps USA or France) from the game as well.

The game rules for Chadwick’s game are overly complicated for the style I’m looking for so I’m looking for a different rules set.  The theme is steampunk Martian sky fliers.

Here’s a Work in Progress.  Mostly have only to paint it.

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Leather Mordheim Map

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

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The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and obscured in all but the important parts; namely, the numbers, legend and title.  After printing I used a black gel pen to give a shadow to all the numbers, title and scale.  I then yellowed the numbers with a yellow highlighter.  The legend was missing too much to not fill in the blanks and to make some uniformity I had to write the entire legend.  Much of it was just tracing over the words underneath.

Here is the image before transferring. on facebook

The detail in the black artwork was completely lost and I feared tearing of the image so I did not rub off the backing as well as I should have.   This image will be laminated and attached to a steel back to allow use of magnets for tracking progress.

In conclusion, using a laser copy probably would be better, but I was able to obtain only ink jet copies.  Despite all I read on the internet, I was able to use an ink jet copy and transfer it to both wood and leather.  In addition to transfer testing, I was also able to better learn how to use my Photoshop Pro program.

Anyways, thanks for looking.

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Mordheim Campaign Map (Large Image)

Note:  I use an ink jet printer.  Even the large image printed at Staples is an ink jet.  I have no idea how a laser printer would look.  Laser printer colors are more vibrant so it might be a better way to go.  Also, I use regular printer paper because other papers tend to require more rubbing and the more the image is touched the better the chance of damage.

All art and images are taken from the internet or the Mordheim rules book PDF.

After testing on red oak, pine and beige leather, I found the numbers are too light to read easily.

Update – I’m still testing which backgrounds work with the following image, thought I’d post it anyways.

Parchment with Yellow numbers.  (Large 24″ x 16″ File)

17-8-25 (24x16) Final w-Yellow numbers

 

After many attempts, I finally found a solution to the faint numbering.  After using the transfer solution and removing the paper, the image must be sealed with a thin coat to allow for both image durability and visibility of the numbers.  Using a common red ink pen, the center red areas of the image’s numbers are traced leaving the yellow border.  Then, a common black ink pen is used to create shadows.

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Note the Lovecraft image at the top.  It was the first thing transferred using straight Future floor wax (the old formula).  Unfortunately, far less than was needed remained in the bottle (I’ve had it for ten years).  The bottle was left open (due to it always wanting to stick closed).  Perhaps the formula evaporated over the years allowing the transferring?

UPDATE:  O.K., Here we go!  I printed a 12″ x 18″ parchment (brown) file and adhered it to a lest strip of leather.  Few wrinkles, but the ink squished out heavily around the edges so I suspect the image will be runny and ruined.

12 x 18 Leather Test

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

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The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and oscured in all but the important parts.

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