Miniatures Ship Projects

I’ve been on a ship building spree the past month or so.  I am about half finished with my Goblins display/fighting ship (tis’ a proper ship as it holds a small torpedo boat as well).  Anyways, it is half of a wrecked ship with the damaged end held above the water by fish nets worth of floating crates and barrels.  I finally got the barrels and crates, but. . .

I have been on a Steampunk Sky ship kick in the past week.  After slapping together the goblin boat above and a 1:300 scale corvette boat for use with Fighting Sails rules by Osprey Wargames, I decided to try and make nice ones I could be proud of when showing them off.

B Carol Fuhl 01

HMS B Carol Fuhl (aka the Be Careful)

I decided to use the Cloudships and Gunboats of Mars from the old Space:  1889 game by Frank Chadwick.  Making a copy of the Aphid class gunboat is almost mandatory for anyone interested in making Martian fight vessels so I’ve built a copy in about 6mm scale.  The end result is a bit chunk for 1mm = 1 foot, but I’m more concerned with the visual appeal at the moment.  I’m making at least one more ship (perhaps USA or France) from the game as well.

The game rules for Chadwick’s game are overly complicated for the style I’m looking for so I’m looking for a different rules set.  The theme is steampunk Martian sky fliers.

Here’s a Work in Progress.  Mostly have only to paint it.

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Leather Mordheim Map

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

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The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and obscured in all but the important parts; namely, the numbers, legend and title.  After printing I used a black gel pen to give a shadow to all the numbers, title and scale.  I then yellowed the numbers with a yellow highlighter.  The legend was missing too much to not fill in the blanks and to make some uniformity I had to write the entire legend.  Much of it was just tracing over the words underneath.

Here is the image before transferring. on facebook

The detail in the black artwork was completely lost and I feared tearing of the image so I did not rub off the backing as well as I should have.   This image will be laminated and attached to a steel back to allow use of magnets for tracking progress.

In conclusion, using a laser copy probably would be better, but I was able to obtain only ink jet copies.  Despite all I read on the internet, I was able to use an ink jet copy and transfer it to both wood and leather.  In addition to transfer testing, I was also able to better learn how to use my Photoshop Pro program.

Anyways, thanks for looking.

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Mordheim Campaign Map (Large Image)

Note:  I use an ink jet printer.  Even the large image printed at Staples is an ink jet.  I have no idea how a laser printer would look.  Laser printer colors are more vibrant so it might be a better way to go.  Also, I use regular printer paper because other papers tend to require more rubbing and the more the image is touched the better the chance of damage.

All art and images are taken from the internet or the Mordheim rules book PDF.

After testing on red oak, pine and beige leather, I found the numbers are too light to read easily.

Update – I’m still testing which backgrounds work with the following image, thought I’d post it anyways.

Parchment with Yellow numbers.  (Large 24″ x 16″ File)

17-8-25 (24x16) Final w-Yellow numbers

 

After many attempts, I finally found a solution to the faint numbering.  After using the transfer solution and removing the paper, the image must be sealed with a thin coat to allow for both image durability and visibility of the numbers.  Using a common red ink pen, the center red areas of the image’s numbers are traced leaving the yellow border.  Then, a common black ink pen is used to create shadows.

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Note the Lovecraft image at the top.  It was the first thing transferred using straight Future floor wax (the old formula).  Unfortunately, far less than was needed remained in the bottle (I’ve had it for ten years).  The bottle was left open (due to it always wanting to stick closed).  Perhaps the formula evaporated over the years allowing the transferring?

UPDATE:  O.K., Here we go!  I printed a 12″ x 18″ parchment (brown) file and adhered it to a lest strip of leather.  Few wrinkles, but the ink squished out heavily around the edges so I suspect the image will be runny and ruined.

12 x 18 Leather Test

Well, the test ended with mixed results.  The corner was intentionally torn as an adhesion test.  I think I should wipe the leather with a degreasing soap before applying leather next time.  I think this might be the end of the project.  Functionally speaking, we are better off using a laminated copy glued to a steel sheet for magnetically tracking territories owned.

DSCN0644

The surface has a sheen to it despite two attempts with Dulcote.  Overall, the picture is hazy and oscured in all but the important parts.

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Book Display Stand

As always, completion of one project leads to a hundred more.  While filling the display case, I realized I need a few things to better display some items.  I have a few books I bought off of Etsy (made by Mille Cuirs) that I want to display, but I could not find a suitable display stand so I created my own using some oak and a broken 3/8″ thick glass shelf I happen to have laying about.  The glass was supposed to be trash, but now that I realized I can cut it, i’ll keep it.

Book Display Stand -combo

I want to do something with the rear base.  I thought of painting it black, but that seems too simple.  Perhaps add a tapper to narrow the width?

I have one more book by Mille I want to display and the above look is equally suitable so its display stand will be pretty much the same except smaller.

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Display Cabinet (IKEA Mod)

Well, the cabinet is about as done as it will get.  I intend to do a few touch ups , but for the most part it is finished.

From IKEA

 

The things planned to store in the cabinet are quite minuscule in number compared to the amount of items displaced by the cabinet.   I should have built was shelving instead.

The cabinet is 50″ wide and nearly 6′ tall and 20″ deep.  It is lit by track lighting and can be dismantled for movement (although this is an utter pain in the ass).

Thanks for looking.

 

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48″ Display Case (IKEA Mod)

Starting life as an IKEA all glass display case (I never trusted the design) this project has the distinction of beginning as a five feet wide case for the Icehouse Game club, but word came down near completion that the space was no longer available.  Thus, Thursday’s project became a redesign on Friday.  Saturday I took up hammer and saw and drove on.

Unfortunately, the project turned out to be longer than expected and larger than expected.  The result is no room or time to finish the Martian Long Gun.

Saturday ended with a picture of a promising start.  Things looked like it might be a two day build.

PLAN B - Day 1 Doors and Sides  Unfortunately, Sunday turned out to be primarily revisiting Saturday’s labors due to the groggy mind caused by late night woodworking.  Sunday ended with a bit of progress.  The front surrounding face was made and the boards for the back wall ready for pocket drilling.  The camera refused to focus.

PLAN B - Day 2 (Front Face) (1)

Day 3 and the back is pretty much ready for final gluing and screwing; However, before I can install the panels, I must first glue on a carpet.  I’m using carpet because the pile should cover over any holes placed thru the peg board.  The current carpet is more like the fuzzy part of Velcro than like the short pile rug I had in mind.  I’m visiting a different Home Depot to see what they might have.  I have a 1/4″ black carpet, but originally wanted a red short pile.  Anyways, thanks for looking.

PLAN B - Day 3 (Back Panel)

Well, the carpet was a bust.  I could not find any I liked and I’m not certain the brackets would lay properly since the pile would probably keep it pushed out.  Instead, I went with red velvet which will probably look like dookie if I should ever expose the holes made by the brackets.  Anyways, the panels were completed yesterday and are ready to install, however, the basement is too dirty to install early, so the five panels remain on my living room floor.

Plan B - Day 4 (Red Panel)

(Day 5) I worked worked on the base and needed to add planks to the tops and bottoms of the side pieces so they meet the top of the front facing.  Also, the bottom planks allow me to screw the sides to the base.

Day 7 – I built the top and stained all of the pieces.  The stain matches the floor board color pretty well.  A coat of polyurethane would probably match them up, but I’m not going to use it.  It looks good enough.  I didn’t really sand down the edges as I should, because I didn’t want to risk damaging the prefinished surface as I did in one spot.  I’m skipping the base molding since it really is just one more thing to get damaged or in the way.

Day 8 – The basement was too dirty to do a dry fit, so I just put it together upstairs in its intended place.  Here is the link to the final outcome.

 

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Martian Long Gun

Updated (7/25/17) at end of post.

I’ve recently joined the Steampunk Gun Club on Facebook.  They are currently having an “all metal” competition that would have been perfect for my Satchel Gun, but work can not have begun before the contest was announced.

Me being the honest Abe that I am decided to dredge up an older idea and use it.  My style is to use a little bit of all materials available during the Steampunk years (circa 1800s).  Although the original contest idea was an all metal build, they did say it was alright to use wood for stocks and grips.  As I’ve mentioned, my build will include other materials as well; however, they will be primarily used as non-critical elements and accessories.

Here is an idea of what the gun will look like without the intended rifle scope added.

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As you can see, it is still a design in progress.  As an extra twist, the contest states the gun’s trigger must be operational in such a way that it operates light, sound, or some other similar effect.

Anyways, the contest ends in mid-July leaving me with about 4 weeks remaining.

I waited for a pivotal piece that connected the stock to the rifle.  (This is shown in the lower rifle example.)  However, I was disappointed to find they mailed me the wrong part.  I visited the local DIY store (Lowes) and found the potential solution using the smaller but available sized 1″ copper pipe tubing of which the gun is primarily made.  The forked uprights are shifting forks from some motor cycle or other.  I only have three at the moment, but have made an effort twice now to buy the correct size (shaft rod).

Wood will be wrapped around the front barrel shrouds.  Another piece will have circles cut into it and extended back near the shoulder.  An upper and lower rod will protrude from the upper and lower edge of the wood stock allowing leather to be wrapped around the end piece for use as the shoulder rest portion of the rear stock.

Update (7/25/17) – Well, a week and a half remain in the contest (the contest was extended until August 5th).  I need to get my ass in gear.  Here’s a pic of what I have thus  far for the gun.  (The tubes along the edge of the bench.)  Unseen is the handle and shoulder stock.  The wooden portion of the shoulder stock can be seen to the right of the lime green drill.  The circles are cut in the stock.  DSCN0592

Overall, I have things figured out and know how I’m going to make them, but I still have no idea about how to dress up the receiver and how to attach the scope.  Also, I’m not convinced the gun will be strong enough.  A 1/2″ threaded rod will hold the barrel pieces together, but it won’t go any further than the receiver so the handle and shoulder stock will be fairly weak.  Of course, that is where the strength needs to be so a solution is needed and quick!

The scope is mocked up and requires a little more work.  I’m not sure if I like it or not.   The mock up is shown here, but the magnifying glasses are not shown.  The diagram is generally how I envision the scope.  As can be seen, a real scope is hidden within the scope allowing four times (4x) magnification.  To complete the project, I’ll have to remove the scope’s eye piece to put on the smaller bellows.  Also, I will be placing a rod to either side of the scope that will hold everything together and straight.  At the moment, the scope rings will remain mid-center of the scope and be used to mount the scope to the rifle.  The tall, metal, fork “Sights” on the gun make mounting a challenge.  However. the shoulder stock sits quite high so using the scope should be relatively comfortable.  People should not have to stretch their neck to use it.

I made the bellows using Popsicle sticks and black hockey tape.  My plan was to wrap over the tape with black leather, but that seems a bit over designed.  The cloth will add an additional texture to help break up the hardness of the oak.  I have some watch crystals that I’ll be using to cover some of the drilled holes.  Aside from any dust, they should not effect the use of the scope.  The magnifying lenses are just for looks and will prevent the scope from being used if placed in line of sight.

The “eye piece” on the far right will be more like that of my range finder project.  The square box, might be used for some other purpose.

DSCN0593   The following pic shows one of many of the inspiring scope designs.  I like the absurdity of having so many optics on one gun.   If time remains, I might involve a laser and/or flash light.71fw-N77k8L._SL1001_

As always, thanks for looking.

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